To celebrate International Creativity and Innovation Day, we are thrilled to share one of our core areas of expertise with you, fragrance design. It combines creativity and innovation, and plays a fundamental role in achieving our objective of perfuming the world. Our in-house team of experts conduct extensive research and analysis, in
Creativity + Innovation: Two Fundamental Ingredients in Fragrance Design
novate using applied technology and perfumer expertise, and leverage our wide range of quality olfactory ingredients.
This all comes together in Eurofragance’s Sensolab, a laboratory where fragrances come to life through textures application and renewed formulations. Smell Me Founder Melina Napolitano sat down with Eurofragance’s Applications Manager Myriam Terés to discuss the work that takes place in the SensoLab.
Melina Napolitano: How does a liquid fragrance become an innovative product?
Myriam Terés: This is the objective of Sensolab – to propose and apply new textures for the perfume market; formats where the consumer can explore the fragrance with the senses. The purpose is to be able to make the invisible tangible, to make fragrances a lively feature in the product, and thus, become a source of inspiration for our customers.
We know that perfume is a source of pleasure and wellbeing, and that the choice of a fragrance is our olfactory code compared to others. Fragrance is a sensorial experience in itself, as it gives us the ability to transport our mind to any place, at any time. This type of experience sometimes requires all the senses to make it happen.
Sensolab tries to find new textures in which to present the perfume; solid textures, foams etc. This allows us to experience fragrances in different formats, that’s what we call innovation.
MN: What is the process of creating a fragrance?
MT: The first step is the design of the fragrance. The choice of the right ingredients, along with creativity, is in the hands of the perfumers. They know in depth which raw materials should be used for each type of application, and they also have great expertise in the broad olfactory palette.
Then, the fragrance designed by the perfumer, goes through the application area where a physical-chemical evaluation of the composition is conducted and the behavior of the application itself is studied (shower gel, body lotion, etc.).
Once these steps have been carried out, the evaluators sit with the fragrances and check that the fragrance application in the product continues to be successful. This is what is called a zero-time validated fragrance. Then, stability studies are carried out to check that the stability of the fragrance does not change over time until the final fragrance is reached.
MN: A fragrance could be in multiple formats, right?
MT: Yes! Have you ever experienced a powdered perfume? Well, fragrance in this format has a double function: one is to give off a scent and the other is to moisturize. This format for a fragrance makes it easy to carry with the added benefit of nourishing the skin.
But there are many more types of textures in fragrances…
Solid perfume is a perfumed balm that can be applied by fingertip. Not only does it require less water in its chemical composition and formulation, but it also weighs less as a finished product. This implies a more sustainable product life cycle. The solid perfume can be converted into a gel shampoo, bath, body lotion, and deodorant in stick format.
These textures arise from a new trend called waterless perfumes, which arises from the movement to protect our most important natural resource: water. Here, innovation manifests in the need to respond to a global crisis, and calls for improved sustainability.
Foam fragrances, one of the most popular formats, are presented in an airy, voluptuous texture that also serves a moisturizing function.
Innovation is more than just a buzzword; Sensolab has no limits in its mission to exceed expectations. The goal is to continue inspiring customers and working on the creation of new ways to enjoy fragrances!
EcoVadis is an international CSR and sustainability ranking operating across 155 countries. It is a globally recognized solution for monitoring sustainability in global supply chains.
Eurofragance has ranked among the top 22% of companies participating in the EcoVadis assessment in our sector. This was our first time being part of the evaluation and we are pleased to announce that we earned a prestigious silver rating.
Laurent Mercier, CEO of Eurofragance, said: “This is a real milestone for Eurofragance. Participating in the EcoVadis assessment for the first time was an eye-opening experience for many of our people. Not only was our performance ranked high against other companies in the sector but we were also provided with feedback on how to improve each of our practices. We’re proud to share this silver rating with our team, partners, and community because it highlights our commitment to sustainability now and in the future.”
Our performance was evaluated against 21 criteria across four categories – ethics, sustainable procurement practices, environment, and labor & human rights. Here are some of our highlights:
- We have extremely strong and thorough ethical policies that are inclusive and responsive to our employees’ needs, including detailed procedures on how to swiftly handle complaints. In this category, we ranked among the top 18% of companies in our sector.
- Our investment in green energy and company-wide recycling programs has strengthened our environmental sustainability score, averaging a score of 60 points out of 100.
- Employees at Eurofragance enjoy many benefits and protections that encourage a work-life balance, such as high standards of health and safety, private health insurance, and kindergarten services for young children.
These are just some of our strengths that were highlighted in the EcoVadis 2019 assessment. We are thrilled with our silver rating and are more motivated than ever to continue improving our practices across the board and work towards a higher rating in 2020 (and beyond!)
We are in the final stretch of 2019, so it is time that we share with you the trends in the world of perfumery for 2020: which ingredients will predominate, the perfume styles and must-known facts about sustainability.
So where are we now, as we look forward to 2020?
In the last year, there has been a rise of individualism, meaning that no one wants to smell like someone else. It is very common among the cosmetics industry to offer personalized products, but, nowadays, we can see more and more perfume brands that are starting to sell customized fragrances.
On the other hand, there has been a complete blurring of boundaries when it comes to gender. Today’s “unisex” is about arbitrary nature of gender divisions in fragrance. Notes should not be gendered in the first place, neither as masculine nor feminine. For instance, when looking at the last decade’s perfumes, it is possible to find many male fragrances which include rose or other floral notes. Also, the warm and eccentric sandalwood, which was historically associated with male fragrances, now impacts the feminine perfumery.
This leads us to the key ingredients for 2020…
The world perfumery trends for the year 2020 show a connection with nature, the search for authenticity and the exploration of sensory pleasures.
Regarding the scents for next year, the trend will be woody scents, the Fougére family will return with some touches of modernity proposed by the dry amber from the fern. However, the protagonist will be the white flower– very feminine, sensual, powerful and captivating.
While fragrances themselves are becoming more globalized, it is more and more common to find oriental notes in occidental perfumery. For example, oud, an ingredient almost unknown in the west a few years ago, now marks the lasts fashion trends in perfumery.
And what about sustainability?
The trend that combines the natural, as well as sustainable in cosmetics and perfumery is consolidated. Ecological, chemical-free ingredients and sustainable formulations are the basis on which cosmetic innovation is currently based. In fact, fragrance houses are developing very strong global programs in sustainability.
This approach is not only a way to include natural ingredients among their perfumes, it also reduces other factors that can harm the environment – packaging- and health – anti-allergens synthetics ingredients.
This are only some predictions that will hold for next year, however, as the year progresses, we will see these trends more developed and some others that will appear. For now, in Eurofragance we want to send our greetings for this holiday season and for the new year 2020.