To celebrate International Creativity and Innovation Day, we are thrilled to share one of our core areas of expertise with you, fragrance design. It combines creativity and innovation, and plays a fundamental role in achieving our objective of perfuming the world. Our in-house team of experts conduct extensive research and analysis, in
Creativity + Innovation: Two Fundamental Ingredients in Fragrance Design
novate using applied technology and perfumer expertise, and leverage our wide range of quality olfactory ingredients.
This all comes together in Eurofragance’s Sensolab, a laboratory where fragrances come to life through textures application and renewed formulations. Smell Me Founder Melina Napolitano sat down with Eurofragance’s Applications Manager Myriam Terés to discuss the work that takes place in the SensoLab.
Melina Napolitano: How does a liquid fragrance become an innovative product?
Myriam Terés: This is the objective of Sensolab – to propose and apply new textures for the perfume market; formats where the consumer can explore the fragrance with the senses. The purpose is to be able to make the invisible tangible, to make fragrances a lively feature in the product, and thus, become a source of inspiration for our customers.
We know that perfume is a source of pleasure and wellbeing, and that the choice of a fragrance is our olfactory code compared to others. Fragrance is a sensorial experience in itself, as it gives us the ability to transport our mind to any place, at any time. This type of experience sometimes requires all the senses to make it happen.
Sensolab tries to find new textures in which to present the perfume; solid textures, foams etc. This allows us to experience fragrances in different formats, that’s what we call innovation.
MN: What is the process of creating a fragrance?
MT: The first step is the design of the fragrance. The choice of the right ingredients, along with creativity, is in the hands of the perfumers. They know in depth which raw materials should be used for each type of application, and they also have great expertise in the broad olfactory palette.
Then, the fragrance designed by the perfumer, goes through the application area where a physical-chemical evaluation of the composition is conducted and the behavior of the application itself is studied (shower gel, body lotion, etc.).
Once these steps have been carried out, the evaluators sit with the fragrances and check that the fragrance application in the product continues to be successful. This is what is called a zero-time validated fragrance. Then, stability studies are carried out to check that the stability of the fragrance does not change over time until the final fragrance is reached.
MN: A fragrance could be in multiple formats, right?
MT: Yes! Have you ever experienced a powdered perfume? Well, fragrance in this format has a double function: one is to give off a scent and the other is to moisturize. This format for a fragrance makes it easy to carry with the added benefit of nourishing the skin.
But there are many more types of textures in fragrances…
Solid perfume is a perfumed balm that can be applied by fingertip. Not only does it require less water in its chemical composition and formulation, but it also weighs less as a finished product. This implies a more sustainable product life cycle. The solid perfume can be converted into a gel shampoo, bath, body lotion, and deodorant in stick format.
These textures arise from a new trend called waterless perfumes, which arises from the movement to protect our most important natural resource: water. Here, innovation manifests in the need to respond to a global crisis, and calls for improved sustainability.
Foam fragrances, one of the most popular formats, are presented in an airy, voluptuous texture that also serves a moisturizing function.
Innovation is more than just a buzzword; Sensolab has no limits in its mission to exceed expectations. The goal is to continue inspiring customers and working on the creation of new ways to enjoy fragrances!
There are many myths surrounding the use of perfumes and fragrances in summer times: citrus scents are better, they should not be applied on skin, etc. However, the secret for the perfume to last on the skin in the summer season is only in its good application and in a previous preparation of the skin so that the fragrance lasts longer.
The skin should always be well hydrated, but even more in summer. One of the best moments to put perfume on the skin is after sun bathing, as thanks to the steam, the pores are open and the fragrance can penetrate better. Moreover, nowadays, there are many perfumes that have their cream version with the same scent which you can use to keep a more intense and longer smell.
Fear of photo-sensitization causes some to perfume clothes instead of skin. But be careful, because fabrics such as silk or linen can be ruined. Some recommend vaporizing the hair; however, perfume has alcohol and in the long run dries the hair and skin of the head, which makes hair ugly and with dandruff.
So where is best to apply the perfume? It is recommended to apply it in the neck and chest, on a daily basis. Yet, perfuming the head or scalp helps, but it’s advised only for special events. About the distance, the further it is applied; better distribution you’ll get. So, apply your perfume 10 centimeters away for a guaranteed and long-lasting smell.
Summer is a territory of citrus, fruit and floral scents. These perfumes give the feeling of air or breeze that one wants to fight the heat. The smell of grass, sea or lemon, for example, are smells that are in nature, and they are usually much more refreshing and suitable for hot days. For a day at the beach, coconut and pineapple aromas are the best, as they remind of tropical climates and relaxing on summer days, or perfumes based on jasmine, lavender, roses and other combinations with floral notes for a special summer night.
Behind every great perfume there is a great professional who mixes exquisite notes to create the perfect scent. This is the perfumer. We talked to our recent graduate Juncal Tomas, Eurofragance’s Junior Perfumer, and the Senior Perfumer and Perfumery School Director, Henry Van Den Heuvel, to learn a bit more about the perfumers training.
In Eurofragance we like to promote talent. That’s why when we discover that someone has “such special talent and passion”, we invest in their formation and training. The progress of this demanding and complex journey of becoming a perfumer goes from studying 850 raw materials, origin smell and chemical composition and belonging families, to learn how to combine them to get a specific accord. But what is more important, we always believe it has to be tailored to the trainee, as not everyone is identical, and it is very important they all overcome their challenges regarding a new fragrance creation.
To be a perfumer you need a special, educated and very sensitive nose that few people possess. “Being a perfumer is a lot of hard work” states Henry, it takes a lot of persistence and sensitivity to become a perfumer. Eurofragance’s training lasts between one and a half to two years. However, as Juncal explained to us, it isn’t a simple process where you have to memorize and past an exam, it is more complex than that. “My training was a constant feeling of uncertainty; it was a process of discovering my own knowledge… they were just guiding me to find the main profile of the raw material trying not to give me a lot of information” says Juncal. Despite this ambiguous situation, where you have to find out by yourself those characteristics that define a raw material, and sometimes you feel a bit off-track; becoming a Junior Perfumer is a process where you grow and learn every day, and after a while you realize how much you have learnt.
The smell is a very abstract element, every perfumer has a different perception of a fragrance, normally based on personal experiences. With this, we are able to realize that in perfumery not everything is black or white, perfumery is an art, it is difficult to find the depth and contrast of it. However, there will always be certain descriptions that qualify a raw material that trainees must recognize, as well as the duration of that scent. After the training is completed, trainees should be able to understand what is the soul of the perfume, defined by the raw materials.
Despite that perfumers training is an exigent process, it definitely pays off. Learning to be a good perfumer is a process that takes your entire life. After graduating from the school, trainees become Junior Perfumers, and guided by a Senior Perfumer, they continue their formation. Our type of training encourages trainees to engage, and despite of its difficulty “there are rewarding efforts like to smell a composition, discover a natural chord, etc”. Being a perfumer is definitely a vocation, it requires dedication and a continuous learning, but what is the most important thing, being a perfumer is being creative and passionate.
Happy International Women’s Day! As every year, in the Eurofragance blog, we like to dedicate an article to our women. As they represent almost half of the workforce. Two years ago, we explained what steps we have taken in Eurofragance to enhance gender equality. And last year we interviewed the women who lead the creative centres of Singapore, Dubai and Barcelona.
In this 2019 we want to focus on our perfumers, the professionals who design and create the fragrances that will later be applied to Perfumery, Home and Personal Care products. And, as Julia Rodriguez says, “although the perfume industry has been focused to a greater extent on the female audience, the creative part has traditionally been dominated by men. Therefore, being a perfumer woman is a challenge to demonstrate that we are equally creative and we also have a closer vision to the final consumer. It is a challenge towards equality.”
Meet the “noses” of Eurofragance
Julia Rodriguez‘s dream was not to be a perfumer, but smells fascinated her and she was always attracted to this world. And it was through a master’s degree about fragrances and flavours that she finally jumps into the fragrance world. Being a perfumer means for Julia to reinvent classic themes through unique compositions to move us to the past with her scent. And what are the protagonists of their work? The Turkish rose, the jasmine sambac and the orris are his favourite raw materials, but since she works in Eurofragance and the Middle East market, the oud cannot be missing in her creations.
Belén García, however, has always wanted to be a perfumer. As a child, she enjoyed the smell of the sea, the flowers and the fragrance of her second home in Tarragona. That is why she always tries to work with natural, authentic and earth-related materials such as iris and vetiver. But, as happened to Julia Rodriguez, the oud has also conquered her by the oriental influence of Eurofragance. And now it is always present in her work!
Creating a perfume is for Natacha Jerome as telling a story, but instead of words with smells. And each story has to be unique: get a different fragrance that people like through the balance of opposite smells. Her favourite raw material, like Belén, is the iris because, for her, it is an incredible ingredient, beautiful with a unique smell.
For Soizic Beaucourt inspiration can come from music, from food, from a trip. But what is really interesting for her is to be able to translate this inspiration into reality. And find solutions to create a note that is both pleasant to the nose and suitable for the use that is going to give.
Angeline Poubeau decided to be a perfumer when she smelled the rose essential oil for the first time and it is now a must in her works. Her favourite ingredient may seem simple but that is very complex because of the many aspects it has to play with it.
Isabel Gil sees her profession as the best way to be in touch with her most emotional part and transform it into something tangible. “When you get a good job, the feeling of satisfaction is insurmountable.” But the challenge for Isabel is to work with specialized segments that require specific techniques such as Home and Air Care. And for this purpose, she is usually inspired by travelling and different cultures. This is how she met the frankincense, a mystical and multifaceted raw material, which she loves to combine with cardamom, a spice that brings spark and effervescence.
Our perfumer Celine Guivarc’h remembers her beginnings in the world of fragrances when she started to smell food before eating. That’s when her father encouraged her to be a perfumer. And that’s what she likes to do, get up in the morning knowing that she will live a dream the rest of the day.
Our perfumers are all great professionals with different origins and specialties. And that is reflected in her creations, which convey their characteristic personality. If you want to know a little more about these creative women and the rest of our perfumers, enter our playlist #Meetourperfumers on our YouTube channel, and follow us to not miss what is to come.
Eurofragance unveils the story behind the new collection presented at Beautyworld Middle East 2018 in Dubai
Have you ever felt the nostalgia of traveling to imaginary lands? That is precisely the feeling that inspired Nomad Tales, our new fragrance collection finally revealed at Beautyworld Middle East 2018. Scents based on precious raw materials that will transport you to fantastic worlds. A collection that was one of the most awaited themes during the 23rd edition of the largest fair of cosmetics and fragrances in the Middle East.
Nomad Tales is truly a unique sensorial experience: Four adventures told by our four exclusive fragrances. Jasmine, oud, cardamom and shamama combined with the mystical forces of the 4 elements of Air, Water, Fire and Earth carry you on a journey to the faraway lands beyond imagination.
Four lands, four elements, four fragrances
Jasmineair: Impulsive and powerful just like air that comes in two forms: a hot sand storm that reshapes the golden sand dunes versus the oxygen that brings life into objects. A timeless and precious fragrance of Soizic Beaucourt.
Aquaoud: An unconventional evocative scent that reinvents the enigmatic oud… A contrasted harmony created by Olaf Larsen.
Cardamon’fire: The scent that burns with the heat of a thousand fires… Tempting and dangerous; passionate and seductive. This raw and carnal fragrance is the work of Belén García.
Shamamia!: The mystic attar captures the essence of the mother-earth; wise, nurturing, sacred and ever-evolving. A multi-faceted fragrance crafted by Julia Rodríguez.
Our perfumers, in collaboration with our excellent creative team, have designed a dreamlike map of distant lands unknown to date. Would you dare to visit them? Be careful, you might decide to stay!
On the International Women´s Day, we interview the women who lead Eurofragance Creative Centres in Singapore, Dubai and Barcelona
Equality is one of Eurofragance´s signatures. Women represent more than 50% of Eurofragance´s workforce, and the company ensures that both women and men have same work conditions and same opportunities to grow professionally.
On the International Women´s Day, we have interviewed three of the women that work in Eurofragance. Let us introduce you to Dr. Soni Singh, Ronalyn Canonigo, and Dolors Costa, Manager of Eurofragance`s Singapore Creative Centre, Coordinator of Dubai Creative Centre, and Manager of Barcelona Creative Centre, respectively.
Dr. Soni Singh, Singapore Creative Centre Manager
Dr. Soni Singh started at Eurofragance as a Technical Manager in 2016, to bring technical support to Asian team, working closely with Perfumers, Fragrance Development Managers (FDMs) and leading the implementation of best practices in all areas under responsibility, such as analysis, sampling, application and technical support. She also took part in the global technical community and leaded the technical projects in the Asian region. One year later, Soni became the Creative Centre Manager in Singapore for Eurofragance Asia Pacific.
“Eurofragance has the capability to nurture its talent, to give them (its talent) the platform needed to grow professionally”, Dr. Soni Singh.
Ronalyn Canonigo, Dubai Creative Centre Coordinator
Ronalyn Canonigo joined Eurofragance in 2015 as a Technical Laboratory Manager and soon she was also appointed as Dubai Creative Centre Coordinator. Ronalyn has been working in the fragrance industry for more than eight years and what she values the most about working at Eurofragance is the fact that the company promotes gender equality and diversity.
“Eurofragance as a company promotes and values gender equality, diversity, which somehow create a complex yet growth enhancing working environment”, Ronalyn Canonigo.
Dolors Costa, Barcelona Creative Centre Manager
Dolors Costa is a chemical engineer. She started in the industry in the Evaluation Area, that according to her, “has a very squared and scientific aspect, and at the same time, a sensory and hedonistic side”. Then she decided to move into marketing, and now she is involved in the development part of the business too, “being CC Manager is the most challenging job I’ve ever had”, she states.
“We are in a very feminine industry, particularly in the development side of the business. There are lots of perfumers, evaluators, technicians, scientist, that are inspirational and hard-working women, the heart of the engine. I have no reason to think that at Eurofragance my career is or will be determined by my gender”, Dolors Costa.
Women are an essential ingredient for Eurofragance scent. Perfumers, HR employees, FDM, Managers, Technical Lab Managers, Admin… Thank you! Thanks for your Passion, your Performance and your Entrepreneurship!
Happy International Women´s Day to all women in the world, especially to our Eurofragancers!