To celebrate International Creativity and Innovation Day, we are thrilled to share one of our core areas of expertise with you, fragrance design. It combines creativity and innovation, and plays a fundamental role in achieving our objective of perfuming the world. Our in-house team of experts conduct extensive research and analysis, in
Creativity + Innovation: Two Fundamental Ingredients in Fragrance Design
novate using applied technology and perfumer expertise, and leverage our wide range of quality olfactory ingredients.
This all comes together in Eurofragance’s Sensolab, a laboratory where fragrances come to life through textures application and renewed formulations. Smell Me Founder Melina Napolitano sat down with Eurofragance’s Applications Manager Myriam Terés to discuss the work that takes place in the SensoLab.
Melina Napolitano: How does a liquid fragrance become an innovative product?
Myriam Terés: This is the objective of Sensolab – to propose and apply new textures for the perfume market; formats where the consumer can explore the fragrance with the senses. The purpose is to be able to make the invisible tangible, to make fragrances a lively feature in the product, and thus, become a source of inspiration for our customers.
We know that perfume is a source of pleasure and wellbeing, and that the choice of a fragrance is our olfactory code compared to others. Fragrance is a sensorial experience in itself, as it gives us the ability to transport our mind to any place, at any time. This type of experience sometimes requires all the senses to make it happen.
Sensolab tries to find new textures in which to present the perfume; solid textures, foams etc. This allows us to experience fragrances in different formats, that’s what we call innovation.
MN: What is the process of creating a fragrance?
MT: The first step is the design of the fragrance. The choice of the right ingredients, along with creativity, is in the hands of the perfumers. They know in depth which raw materials should be used for each type of application, and they also have great expertise in the broad olfactory palette.
Then, the fragrance designed by the perfumer, goes through the application area where a physical-chemical evaluation of the composition is conducted and the behavior of the application itself is studied (shower gel, body lotion, etc.).
Once these steps have been carried out, the evaluators sit with the fragrances and check that the fragrance application in the product continues to be successful. This is what is called a zero-time validated fragrance. Then, stability studies are carried out to check that the stability of the fragrance does not change over time until the final fragrance is reached.
MN: A fragrance could be in multiple formats, right?
MT: Yes! Have you ever experienced a powdered perfume? Well, fragrance in this format has a double function: one is to give off a scent and the other is to moisturize. This format for a fragrance makes it easy to carry with the added benefit of nourishing the skin.
But there are many more types of textures in fragrances…
Solid perfume is a perfumed balm that can be applied by fingertip. Not only does it require less water in its chemical composition and formulation, but it also weighs less as a finished product. This implies a more sustainable product life cycle. The solid perfume can be converted into a gel shampoo, bath, body lotion, and deodorant in stick format.
These textures arise from a new trend called waterless perfumes, which arises from the movement to protect our most important natural resource: water. Here, innovation manifests in the need to respond to a global crisis, and calls for improved sustainability.
Foam fragrances, one of the most popular formats, are presented in an airy, voluptuous texture that also serves a moisturizing function.
Innovation is more than just a buzzword; Sensolab has no limits in its mission to exceed expectations. The goal is to continue inspiring customers and working on the creation of new ways to enjoy fragrances!
There are many myths surrounding the use of perfumes and fragrances in summer times: citrus scents are better, they should not be applied on skin, etc. However, the secret for the perfume to last on the skin in the summer season is only in its good application and in a previous preparation of the skin so that the fragrance lasts longer.
The skin should always be well hydrated, but even more in summer. One of the best moments to put perfume on the skin is after sun bathing, as thanks to the steam, the pores are open and the fragrance can penetrate better. Moreover, nowadays, there are many perfumes that have their cream version with the same scent which you can use to keep a more intense and longer smell.
Fear of photo-sensitization causes some to perfume clothes instead of skin. But be careful, because fabrics such as silk or linen can be ruined. Some recommend vaporizing the hair; however, perfume has alcohol and in the long run dries the hair and skin of the head, which makes hair ugly and with dandruff.
So where is best to apply the perfume? It is recommended to apply it in the neck and chest, on a daily basis. Yet, perfuming the head or scalp helps, but it’s advised only for special events. About the distance, the further it is applied; better distribution you’ll get. So, apply your perfume 10 centimeters away for a guaranteed and long-lasting smell.
Summer is a territory of citrus, fruit and floral scents. These perfumes give the feeling of air or breeze that one wants to fight the heat. The smell of grass, sea or lemon, for example, are smells that are in nature, and they are usually much more refreshing and suitable for hot days. For a day at the beach, coconut and pineapple aromas are the best, as they remind of tropical climates and relaxing on summer days, or perfumes based on jasmine, lavender, roses and other combinations with floral notes for a special summer night.
Behind every great perfume there is a great professional who mixes exquisite notes to create the perfect scent. This is the perfumer. We talked to our recent graduate Juncal Tomas, Eurofragance’s Junior Perfumer, and the Senior Perfumer and Perfumery School Director, Henry Van Den Heuvel, to learn a bit more about the perfumers training.
In Eurofragance we like to promote talent. That’s why when we discover that someone has “such special talent and passion”, we invest in their formation and training. The progress of this demanding and complex journey of becoming a perfumer goes from studying 850 raw materials, origin smell and chemical composition and belonging families, to learn how to combine them to get a specific accord. But what is more important, we always believe it has to be tailored to the trainee, as not everyone is identical, and it is very important they all overcome their challenges regarding a new fragrance creation.
To be a perfumer you need a special, educated and very sensitive nose that few people possess. “Being a perfumer is a lot of hard work” states Henry, it takes a lot of persistence and sensitivity to become a perfumer. Eurofragance’s training lasts between one and a half to two years. However, as Juncal explained to us, it isn’t a simple process where you have to memorize and past an exam, it is more complex than that. “My training was a constant feeling of uncertainty; it was a process of discovering my own knowledge… they were just guiding me to find the main profile of the raw material trying not to give me a lot of information” says Juncal. Despite this ambiguous situation, where you have to find out by yourself those characteristics that define a raw material, and sometimes you feel a bit off-track; becoming a Junior Perfumer is a process where you grow and learn every day, and after a while you realize how much you have learnt.
The smell is a very abstract element, every perfumer has a different perception of a fragrance, normally based on personal experiences. With this, we are able to realize that in perfumery not everything is black or white, perfumery is an art, it is difficult to find the depth and contrast of it. However, there will always be certain descriptions that qualify a raw material that trainees must recognize, as well as the duration of that scent. After the training is completed, trainees should be able to understand what is the soul of the perfume, defined by the raw materials.
Despite that perfumers training is an exigent process, it definitely pays off. Learning to be a good perfumer is a process that takes your entire life. After graduating from the school, trainees become Junior Perfumers, and guided by a Senior Perfumer, they continue their formation. Our type of training encourages trainees to engage, and despite of its difficulty “there are rewarding efforts like to smell a composition, discover a natural chord, etc”. Being a perfumer is definitely a vocation, it requires dedication and a continuous learning, but what is the most important thing, being a perfumer is being creative and passionate.
We are back! Last week we were in Paris to attend In-Cosmetics, the most outstanding international event about cosmetic ingredients. And as in Eurofragance we are experts in fragrances for cosmetic products, we could not miss it!
This year has been special: we have launched True Nomad Senso-Lab Collection, the collection of innovative fragrance applications and the first framed our creative project “Nomad Saga”. And, in addition, we present new trends for the segments of Fine Fragrance and Body Care. Are you ready to discover them?
True Nomad Senso-Lab Collection
If you thought you had seen everything in terms of applying fragrances, nothing could be further from reality. Our trip, inspired by the Nomad Saga project, will explore the creative blending of precious raw materials through extraordinary, inspiring and engaging applications where the True Nomads will treasure moments of beauty on their discovery journeys.
- Solid Perfume: An essential for those on the road who would like to keep perfumed on their adventures! Designed with vetiver as the main element. Its solid format is ideal to carry in your suitcase.
- Roller Pearl: Based on the Labdanum, this roll-on perfume just like a scented tattoo, marks your many adventures on your skin.
- Cushion: This cooling water jelly with rich perfume based in Rose note gives you a beautiful scent anywhere and anytime!
- Oil Perfume: A nourishing and silky oil whose core ingredient is Tonka Bean, with an ultimate second skin finish that illuminates your skin.
Trends in Fine Fragrance and Body Care
Eurofragance also presented in In-Cosmetics fair the latest creations of our expert perfumers. As for the Fine Fragrance segment, we announced 4 collections inspired in the latest trends: In Drinker Collection, concoctions and cocktails made their way into high-end perfumery. With White Magic Collection, White florals move from sunny territories toward sweet, oriental, balsamic lands. The Ethereal World Collection, Airy, delicate, magical, feminine floral scents make a stand as Peony leads the way. And in I wanna spice you up Collection, sexy fresh spices give a vibrant, different and young touch to the compositions.
In general, trends are moving toward lighter compositions and reinterpretations of classics, where some of the fragrances enter a new market by transcending the restrictions of masculine and feminine perfumery. In addition, the rise of millennials promotes the reinvention of classics and the increasing demand for lighter compositions. We see floral notes combined with oriental touches or spicy and youthful creations at the same time. Did you expect that?
In the Body Care segment as in other aspects of life, consumers seek more than ever products with natural ingredients and appearance. For this reason, at Eurofragance we propose the Back to the Roots, a collection of fragrances with botanical ingredients present in nature. There is also room for those daring people; for them, we bring new scents for applications such as Micellar Water, our scent smell fresh, musky and watery flowers. And for the most sentimental, our perfumers present Enhancing Emotions, fragrances that enrich emotions through their floral, tropical and fruity notes combined with citrus and sweet notes like vanilla applied to sensory textures.
But this has only just begun. We continue with the season of fairs and next week you can find us where “you must be” BeautyWorld Middle East, Dubai. We will keep you posted in our social networks and, soon, in a new blog post. Stay tuned!
Today’s post is a particularly exciting one for us. At long last, we are launching NOMAD SAGA, a creative project that takes us back to our roots, and which embodies our company’s personality and the people who make it what it is.
Our nomadic wanderings began decades ago when Santiago Sabatés first set foot in the lands of the Orient. We have been travelling ever since, discovering and absorbing new cultures, raw materials and ways of working. Nomad Saga encompasses all the experiences, anecdotes and stories we will share with our followers.
To ensure that you never miss a thing, we’ve designed the Nomad Saga website, a place where you can travel with us, share our stories and learn about the creations we make with the world’s most extraordinary raw ingredients.
Nomad Experience. Travel with us.
Nomad Experience is the record of our travels: trade fairs, congresses… Places where we can meet and where you can join us on our exciting journey through the world of fragrance. A trip that started last year at the BeautyWorld Middle East 2018 trade fair where we debuted our long-awaited Nomad Tales collection, details of which we shared in an earlier post. Four fragrances based on four raw materials that represent far-flung and imaginary climes. A unique, powerful experience for the senses, worthy of the nomadic legacy we are continuing.
And if Nomad Tales was a delightful surprise, wait until you see what we have in store this season.
Nomad Box. Treasures of perfumery in a unique box.
Eurofragance has always sought out and used extraordinary raw materials in its creations. According to our CEO, Laurent Mercier, there’s no better way of showing our skills as a company than sharing them. This we have done by creating a beautiful box containing fascinating elements from our perfumer’s palette, a fragrance created with this raw material and a guide to its history, culture and the people responsible for it.
Our first jewel is Shamama. A traditional essential oil originating in the city of Kannauj, in India, for which we have special affection at Eurofragance. And just like Eurofragance’s creations, it is always unique. The creators of this magical combination of raw ingredients have kept the formula a secret, converting this oil into almost a work of art.
Would you like to learn more about this extraordinary material? Keep an eye on our social networks. Little by little, we will tell you what our Nomad discovered about Shamama while travelling through these exotic lands.
Nomad Farm. Creative Workshop.
Finally, Nomad Saga also includes Nomad Farm. Eurofragance offers creative workshops based on the Nomad Saga theme. Get ready for an interactive journey where you will discover new ingredients, unique applications and trends.
Spontaneity, vitality, reflection… Each stage of life of a person is accompanied by an attitude and the right fragrance can represent it to perfection.
In an earlier post, we talked about perfumery ingredients that best represent a woman’s age. To finish the topic, today we’ll look at the most appropriate notes for a masculine audience. Are you wearing the right fragrance for your age? Find out!
From 20 to 35
After the age of 20, you may no longer feel that this sweet, citrus smell of the fragrance you used during your teens suits you. But hold on! There’s no need to give up fruity aromas completely. Fresh notes of bergamot, orange, lemon and other, less-known citrus smells are very much in fashion, and they are perfect combined with spicy touches of pepper, vanilla and cinnamon… They give a fragrance an appropriate depth for this stage of life.
From 35 to 45
After the age of 30, men tend to go for fragrances with woody notes that give the impression of strength and maturity. Some fragrances are based on pine, which gives clean air, while others, such as cedarwood, are warm and natural. Bamboo relaxes the senses, while other creamier, cosier smells like sandalwood and vetiver are well known for their intense, enigmatic, and even sweet aromas. Pick the one that best suits your personality!
From 45 to 55 and beyond
Now is the time to show off the experience you have amassed over the years. When you reach this age, your serenity and presence will shine through if you choose a fragrance with character. At this stage of life, men choose light, woody scents combined with earthy notes like ginger, galbanum and iris… Strong fragrances which are not heavy.
The perfume you wear is like a calling card that makes a first impression, one that we should rethink for each stage of life. Now you have the clues to find the best fragrances for men of every age. Find the combination you feel suits you best and let your perfume do the talking for you.