To celebrate International Creativity and Innovation Day, we are thrilled to share one of our core areas of expertise with you, fragrance design. It combines creativity and innovation, and plays a fundamental role in achieving our objective of perfuming the world. Our in-house team of experts conduct extensive research and analysis, in
Creativity + Innovation: Two Fundamental Ingredients in Fragrance Design
novate using applied technology and perfumer expertise, and leverage our wide range of quality olfactory ingredients.
This all comes together in Eurofragance’s Sensolab, a laboratory where fragrances come to life through textures application and renewed formulations. Smell Me Founder Melina Napolitano sat down with Eurofragance’s Applications Manager Myriam Terés to discuss the work that takes place in the SensoLab.
Melina Napolitano: How does a liquid fragrance become an innovative product?
Myriam Terés: This is the objective of Sensolab – to propose and apply new textures for the perfume market; formats where the consumer can explore the fragrance with the senses. The purpose is to be able to make the invisible tangible, to make fragrances a lively feature in the product, and thus, become a source of inspiration for our customers.
We know that perfume is a source of pleasure and wellbeing, and that the choice of a fragrance is our olfactory code compared to others. Fragrance is a sensorial experience in itself, as it gives us the ability to transport our mind to any place, at any time. This type of experience sometimes requires all the senses to make it happen.
Sensolab tries to find new textures in which to present the perfume; solid textures, foams etc. This allows us to experience fragrances in different formats, that’s what we call innovation.
MN: What is the process of creating a fragrance?
MT: The first step is the design of the fragrance. The choice of the right ingredients, along with creativity, is in the hands of the perfumers. They know in depth which raw materials should be used for each type of application, and they also have great expertise in the broad olfactory palette.
Then, the fragrance designed by the perfumer, goes through the application area where a physical-chemical evaluation of the composition is conducted and the behavior of the application itself is studied (shower gel, body lotion, etc.).
Once these steps have been carried out, the evaluators sit with the fragrances and check that the fragrance application in the product continues to be successful. This is what is called a zero-time validated fragrance. Then, stability studies are carried out to check that the stability of the fragrance does not change over time until the final fragrance is reached.
MN: A fragrance could be in multiple formats, right?
MT: Yes! Have you ever experienced a powdered perfume? Well, fragrance in this format has a double function: one is to give off a scent and the other is to moisturize. This format for a fragrance makes it easy to carry with the added benefit of nourishing the skin.
But there are many more types of textures in fragrances…
Solid perfume is a perfumed balm that can be applied by fingertip. Not only does it require less water in its chemical composition and formulation, but it also weighs less as a finished product. This implies a more sustainable product life cycle. The solid perfume can be converted into a gel shampoo, bath, body lotion, and deodorant in stick format.
These textures arise from a new trend called waterless perfumes, which arises from the movement to protect our most important natural resource: water. Here, innovation manifests in the need to respond to a global crisis, and calls for improved sustainability.
Foam fragrances, one of the most popular formats, are presented in an airy, voluptuous texture that also serves a moisturizing function.
Innovation is more than just a buzzword; Sensolab has no limits in its mission to exceed expectations. The goal is to continue inspiring customers and working on the creation of new ways to enjoy fragrances!
Soap Cycling Singapore is an NGO that works with students, hotels, businesses, volunteers, and charities across Asia to recycle soap. In a movement to improve sanitation and hygiene, the organization collects, cleans, and renews gently used soaps that are about to be thrown out. Its efforts help support recycling and greener living, as well as waste reduction by distributing soap to regions without it and that need it most.
Soap Cycling was founded in 2012 by David Bishop, a law professor at The University of Hong Kong, and a group of his students. In 2017, operations started in Singapore, pioneered by students from the National University of Singapore.
We had the opportunity to connect with Jacqueline (Jackie) Tan, Soap Cycling Singapore’s partnerships manager, to discuss the organization’s journey and mission. She explained the recycling process that the organization follows, from initial collection to final distribution.
The process starts with the collection of lightly-used soap from local hotels in Singapore. “At the moment, we are saving 510kg of lightly used soap from the incinerator,” she explains.
Next, the soap is sent to Soap Cycling warehouses, which rely on partnerships. As in any other company, growth happens in small steps; after years of storing soap under their beds, one of their local partners has offered a modest storage place and activity spaces for volunteering sessions. “We experience an amicable collaboration here. This local charity is serving the migrant workers community in Singapore. Injured workers cannot work, so we compensate them by giving them tasks they can perform and covering their transport, leases and food costs” explains Jackie.
The soap is then sorted, recycled, and distributed to the needy with the help of NGO partners. In 2019, they distributed over 300kg (7,500 soap bars) in Singapore and the nearby region. Besides their local distribution, they also sent out soap to Indonesia and The Philippines.
To face down the COVID-19 crisis, Soap Cycling is joining forces with charity partners to distribute soap to vulnerable populations. “Our partners have already hand sanitizer and masks, so we are putting together a care package that we distribute. So far, we have distributed this care package to 1,800 workers in the past 2 weeks,” Jackie adds.
When asked about where she sees Soap Cycling moving in the next 5 years, Jackie explained that the organization wants to keep supporting the Singaporean and migrant worker communities and expand rapidly so that it can provide soap to disadvantaged communities throughout Southeast Asia. Moreover, she sees the future of the organization including liquid soap collection and recycling.
Eurofragance has contributed immensely to Soap Cycling Singapore’s recent development, and that’s just the start. We are going to continue to support this organization so that more projects can be undertaken and developed, and even more people can be helped.
EcoVadis is an international CSR and sustainability ranking operating across 155 countries. It is a globally recognized solution for monitoring sustainability in global supply chains.
Eurofragance has ranked among the top 22% of companies participating in the EcoVadis assessment in our sector. This was our first time being part of the evaluation and we are pleased to announce that we earned a prestigious silver rating.
Laurent Mercier, CEO of Eurofragance, said: “This is a real milestone for Eurofragance. Participating in the EcoVadis assessment for the first time was an eye-opening experience for many of our people. Not only was our performance ranked high against other companies in the sector but we were also provided with feedback on how to improve each of our practices. We’re proud to share this silver rating with our team, partners, and community because it highlights our commitment to sustainability now and in the future.”
Our performance was evaluated against 21 criteria across four categories – ethics, sustainable procurement practices, environment, and labor & human rights. Here are some of our highlights:
- We have extremely strong and thorough ethical policies that are inclusive and responsive to our employees’ needs, including detailed procedures on how to swiftly handle complaints. In this category, we ranked among the top 18% of companies in our sector.
- Our investment in green energy and company-wide recycling programs has strengthened our environmental sustainability score, averaging a score of 60 points out of 100.
- Employees at Eurofragance enjoy many benefits and protections that encourage a work-life balance, such as high standards of health and safety, private health insurance, and kindergarten services for young children.
These are just some of our strengths that were highlighted in the EcoVadis 2019 assessment. We are thrilled with our silver rating and are more motivated than ever to continue improving our practices across the board and work towards a higher rating in 2020 (and beyond!)
All of us at Eurofragance would like to wish our team, customers, partners, and affiliates in Asia a warm and happy Chinese new year! As we usher in the start of the year of the rat, we would like to share some exciting updates in the region with the world.
With 2020, a new opportunity to activate new energies emerges, and, as astrologers say, this year is expected to be about progression and starting a new project with great strength.
So, our new project is… drumroll… China! In August last year, we created our new entity in China. Our presence in Asia has now been strengthened by this decision and we will be working with a trusted local manufacturing partner to get things off the ground.
We are looking forward to working with a new (growing) team to keep the production local. This way, we can be fast and agile in delivering our products to new clients. We’re also open to domestic partnerships!
This new Chinese year is great for improving ongoing projects. We currently have a small presence in Shanghai, and we are hoping to continue growing as 2020 gets underway. Next, we will be turning our attention to all things sales!.
So, what does the year of the rat have in store for Eurofragance? Simply, it presents us with the chance to seize every opportunity that comes our way to grow our team and presence in China and capitalize on our momentum.
We will be reaching out to customers and scaling our business very proactively. Stay tuned for more updates as we continue to reach new milestones.
We are in the final stretch of 2019, so it is time that we share with you the trends in the world of perfumery for 2020: which ingredients will predominate, the perfume styles and must-known facts about sustainability.
So where are we now, as we look forward to 2020?
In the last year, there has been a rise of individualism, meaning that no one wants to smell like someone else. It is very common among the cosmetics industry to offer personalized products, but, nowadays, we can see more and more perfume brands that are starting to sell customized fragrances.
On the other hand, there has been a complete blurring of boundaries when it comes to gender. Today’s “unisex” is about arbitrary nature of gender divisions in fragrance. Notes should not be gendered in the first place, neither as masculine nor feminine. For instance, when looking at the last decade’s perfumes, it is possible to find many male fragrances which include rose or other floral notes. Also, the warm and eccentric sandalwood, which was historically associated with male fragrances, now impacts the feminine perfumery.
This leads us to the key ingredients for 2020…
The world perfumery trends for the year 2020 show a connection with nature, the search for authenticity and the exploration of sensory pleasures.
Regarding the scents for next year, the trend will be woody scents, the Fougére family will return with some touches of modernity proposed by the dry amber from the fern. However, the protagonist will be the white flower– very feminine, sensual, powerful and captivating.
While fragrances themselves are becoming more globalized, it is more and more common to find oriental notes in occidental perfumery. For example, oud, an ingredient almost unknown in the west a few years ago, now marks the lasts fashion trends in perfumery.
And what about sustainability?
The trend that combines the natural, as well as sustainable in cosmetics and perfumery is consolidated. Ecological, chemical-free ingredients and sustainable formulations are the basis on which cosmetic innovation is currently based. In fact, fragrance houses are developing very strong global programs in sustainability.
This approach is not only a way to include natural ingredients among their perfumes, it also reduces other factors that can harm the environment – packaging- and health – anti-allergens synthetics ingredients.
This are only some predictions that will hold for next year, however, as the year progresses, we will see these trends more developed and some others that will appear. For now, in Eurofragance we want to send our greetings for this holiday season and for the new year 2020.